Strenuous Leader: John Distance : 10 miles – approx. 2000 ft total ascent
We head east out of Kettlewell, following the path along Dowber Gill Beck until we reach the blocked-off pothole at Providence Pot. From there we have a short steep climb to the scout hut at Hag Dyke, followed by the ascent to the summit of Great Whernside (704m). We then cross Black Dike – parts of this descent are steep so please bring poles if you need them. Heading west, we pick up the path into the charming little village of Starbotton and follow the River Wharfe back into Kettlewell on the Dales Way. There may be bovine ruminants on this stretch.
This is a very scenic walk – most of it is on good paths but parts of Great Whernside are very boggy.
Moderate Leader: Pamela Distance : 8 miles
We will walk out of Kettlewell and proceed up a 300+ metre (1000 ft) climb over the first hour of our walk to Cam Head then make our way across Starbotton Out Moor. Starbotton Out Moor is a little boggy and this will take a little while to cross, next we will cross Knuckle Bone Pasture where we will have views of Wharfedale. We will drop down to Starbotton village, down a steep and stony path, where we can catch our breath at the Fox and Hounds if needed before crossing the River Wharfe where we will join the Dales Way back to Kettlewell.
Easy Leader: Jackie Distance: 5 miles
We leave Kettlewell village to take a path just above the valley as far as Starbotton, where we will have our lunch. Crossing over the River Wharfe we follow the river back to Kettlewell. A mixture of footpaths, some muddy some stony. This is the Yorkshire Dales, so numerous stiles of all varieties!
NOTES ON THE AREA
Kettlewell is the hub of Upper Wharfedale, a junction of roads and a natural halting place, nestling at the main junction of the Wharfe valley. It stands on what was a major coaching route to Richmond, and the two Inns at the entrance to the village would service the weary travellers. Shops, tearooms and a third Inn add more life to a village being steadily engulfed by holiday homes. The slopes of Great Whernside bear the scars of a lead-mining industry long since replaced by tourism as a major source of employment.
In the 12th century, part of Kettlewell’s manor was granted to the canons of Coverham Abbey across the hills to the north. Fountains Abbey and Bolton Priory also had estates here, so it was natural that a market was established in the 13th century and the village became a thriving community. Textiles, and in the late 18th and early 19th centuries, lead-mining revitalized the village’s prosperity and so Kettlewell’s appearance today derives much from those past 200 years. The remains of the smelting mill, used from 1700 to 1886, can still be seen near the confluence of Cam and Dowber Becks half a mile above the village.
The main road touches only the southern end of the village, and a stroll through the town’s quiet lanes and turnings reveals a number of 17th and 18th century houses, including the vicarage. The church, however, is late Victorian. This attractive 19th century building stands on the site of an earlier 12th century church from which only the “tub” font remains. A document of 1338, on display, refers to the days when the manor belonged to Coverham Abbey, near Leyburn. There are two interesting modern windows commemorating young men who died in the Second World War.
There are many stories relating to Kettlewell. According to one of these, in 1218 the local parson was found dead in the fields. Ralph, the Marshall, was suspected of the killing as he had seduced the parson’s mistress and taken her off to Skipton. Perhaps she was attracted as much by Ralph’s money as his other charms because parsons were never well paid, and during Elizabethan times the Kettlewell parson kept an inn in his house to eke out his meagre salary.
Another story is about Starbotton which is a compact village surrounded by fells. In 1686 a torrential storm caused flooding, and because the houses were so close together, most were destroyed and the bridge washed away. Off the main road are some lovely corners with an old Quaker burial ground hidden away.
Kettlewell is regarded as one of the most peaceful and beautiful villages in the area. It is well known for its limestone terraces fringed with Hazel and Rowan trees. It is surrounded by superb walking countryside from fell walking to gentle strolls along the river and has plenty of watering holes and outdoor shops to cater for walkers’ needs. It is also good for cycling along the quiet country lanes and other peaceful villages.